Things I love- Surfing

I’ve talked a little bit about what I call The California Myth before- and maybe myth isn’t a good word.  The California Image.  The California Package.  Uh, I don’t know.  I’ll come up with a better phrase.

Some legendary archetypes have come out of California, and probably the greatest is The Surfer.  I don’t even need to describe The Surfer to you, he or she is like The Cowboy or The Pro-Wrestler, you just know.

I always wanted to be A Surfer.  So far I have failed.  Yes, I love surfing, no I can’t actually do it.

A Surfer doesn’t battle the ocean, but moves in unison with it.  A Surfer doesn’t tame the ocean, but joins with it.  I’ve always suspected there is a spiritual element to being a surfer, but again, I wouldn’t know because I can’t surf.

I’m also not someone who actually places much importance on spirituality (whatever that is) so maybe it wouldn’t work on me anyway.

I can bodyboard, which is kind of like saying “I can’t play guitar, but I rip at Guitar Hero.”  Well, not exactly; I can ride waves.  I know how they work.  I can feel the ocean’s power.  But I can’t shake the feeling when I’m doing it that it would be much cooler if I were standing up.

I have tried.  I need to buy a longboard and put in the time figuring it out.  Someday I will.  Until then I will watch admiringly from the shore.


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